WHT Z06 Mods: Brakes

WHT Z06 Modifications:
Brakes

When it was time to do the brakes on my Z06 I went with factory pads. My rotors were done so I upgraded to 2-piece rotors.

Description GM Delco # Pads # Pins

Front 19153019 171-0959 12 16

Rear 19153020 171-0970 8 12

Description	GM	Delco	# Pads	# Pins
Front	19153019	171-0959	12	16
Rear	19153020	171-0970	8	12

The factory pad kits come with new guide pins.

For rotors I used Performance AFX Motorsports 2 piece rotors. They use Colman Racing rings which are directional and slotted.


Front	Rear

Here are the part numbers:

Description Assembly Rotor-only Bolt Kit Bolt &
Nut Kit

Left Front 100277/100278
Drivers 100279/100280
Drivers 100111 100154

Right Front 100277/100278
Passenger 100279/100280
Passenger

Left Rear 100171-72/100129-30
Drivers 100200/100201
Drivers 100206 100205

Right Rear 100171-72/100129-30
Passenger 100200/100201
Passenger

Description	Assembly	Rotor-only	Bolt Kit	Bolt & Nut Kit
Left Front	100277/100278 Drivers	100279/100280 Drivers	100111	100154
Right Front	100277/100278 Passenger	100279/100280 Passenger
Left Rear	100171-72/100129-30 Drivers	100200/100201 Drivers	100206	100205
Right Rear	100171-72/100129-30 Passenger	100200/100201 Passenger

Both of the rears rotor assemblies need to specify "parking brake provisions."

Installation notes

Two brake pads per caliper have wear tabs. These need to be installed so that each tab drags behind the last pad on each side as the car moves forward. Pads wear more towards the trailing side so this means the tab will come in contact with the rotor sooner.
The front calipers are located to the rear of each front wheel so the pads with tabs should be at the top. The rear calipers are ahead of the rear wheels so the tabs should be at the bottom.
The factory specification for rotor lateral runout is "0.002. Thanks to the all alloy suspension parts there is nowhere to place the magnetic mount for a dial indicator so I used some scrap to make a perch that mounts to the top of the knuckle.
The factory service manual says torque the lug nuts with Kent-Moore J-45101-100 brake run out washers to factory specs (100 lb/ft) in a cross pattern. The washers have the same conical taper as the wheels and keep from damaging the rotor hat or the lug nuts.
If a rotor had excessive runout I was able to rotate it until finding a position that was within spec. At that point I marked a stud and the rotor so that the relative position can be maintained the next time the rotor is removed.
Current production caliper pins are T-45 and they can be very difficult to remove using hand tools (e.g. a 3/8 Torx bit and breaker bar). Standard Torx bits are very easy to break even when pre-soaking with penetrating oil. The lower pins are the worst; I suspect water causes corrosion between the dissimilar metal of the aluminum calipers and steel pin threads. And certainly the lower pins frequently have a buildup of white residue. Eventually I bought some 1/2 drive impact Torx sockets. Using one of these it only takes a couple of easy hits from my Milwaukee M18 1/2" electric impact gun.
When installing the new pins I like to put a small amount of anti-seize on the deepest part of the threads (which is where the white residue is usually found). The pins are torqued to 30 lb/ft.
Don at Performance AFX Motorsports says the aircraft nuts should be replaced every fourth time and to torque them to 90 lb/in.
Swapping the front rotors is straight forward using an 8mm socket on the nuts and a 11mm box wrench on the bolt. The rears are a bit more challenging due to the Phillips head bolts. The trick is to use a PH3 bit which fits perfectly.